Inside Mildreds Camden, some of the vibrant cafe style that has long-defined Mildreds Soho is carried on. Retro green benches, wooden cafe tables and hanging bronze pendant lights contrast the aptly named Glass Building in which the restaurant sits. The colourful circus wallpaper on the walls and abstract photographs add a bit of quirkiness. And while the windows look out onto the bustling Jamestown Road, the restaurant provides a nice respite from the crowds of Camden Market nearby.
The menu is similar to Mildreds Soho’s, and most of the options are vegan. Some of the dishes have been tried and tested over the years, like the mushroom and ale pie with mushy peas and the smoked tofu burger. But there are plenty of new dishes to try as well, like the Vietnamese mock duck and rice noodle bowl, or the deep-fried buttermilk and polenta mock chicken. The tempting starters or small plates include hoummus with rose harissa and chargrilled flatbread, gyoza dumplings, and roasted miso aubergine. There’s a good selection of mouth-watering puddings, cakes and truffles that are mostly vegan. Cocktails, mocktails, organic wine, beer, cider, coffee and soft drinks are all available.
There’s a large bar area at the entrance, which, like in Mildreds Soho, is the best place to wait for a table when it’s busy. The bar also doubles as a serving table at lunchtime when salads, soup, quiche and daily specials are served. Bookings are only accepted for large groups, but the waiting times are reasonable. Staff are friendly and accommodating.
With a name and reputation firmly established, Mildreds Camden has had a lot to live up to; judging by the great food and full tables, things are going well. Good news, as a third restaurant followed in King’s Cross.